Stroll between Cotswold towns on this fascinating canal towpath walk.

Walk distance: 7.5 km

Walk time: 2 hours

Terrain: Towpath, mostly even

Toilets: Stonehouse town (not the station), Stroud town and station

Refreshments: Both Stonehouse and Stroud have an array of independent cafes including a focus on healthy and vegetarian food.

Additional info: Deep unfenced water.

Open this route in the OS Maps app to follow, adapt or download the gpx file.

In my opinion, OS Maps is the best route planning app available because it combines detailed topographical maps with a user-friendly interface.

Follow the towpath

Towpath navigation is easy and this section of canal has no tunnels so you won’t need to divert until you get to Stroud. Just stay on the towpath and walk in the right direction. There are signposts to help and lots of benches.

1. From Stonehouse station

Originally called the Stroudwater Navigation and known locally as the Stroudwater, the Stroudwater Canal has a fascinating history. Finding it from Stonehouse station is a bit fiddly (and I’ve chosen a long route round) but when you get there, you’ll be delighted with the reflections of beautiful St Cyr’s Church in the water at The Ocean.

The Ocean but not the sea

The Ocean isn’t a lovely seaside location, the Stroudwater Canal is only 7.8 miles long and this is the Cotswolds. Instead it’s a charmingly named winding hole, where canal boats had space to turn around.

The Ocean isn’t currently navigable because it requires dredging but all along this intriguing canal you’ll find evidence of the hard work the Cotswold Canals Partnership have put in to dredge, restore towpaths and enhance wildlife habitats. This work is ongoing and ambitious projects are planned to reopen the whole canal including the Stroudwater’s ‘missing mile’, which was lost when the M5 was built.

2. Nutshell Bridge Stonehouse

After you’ve admired the reflections at St Cyr’s, pass under the beautiful arch of Grade Two listed Nutshell Bridge. The attached house was once a warehouse with a hoist but was converted to accommodation, probably a boarding house in 1827. The Stroudwater seems wider than some canals here. It ran from the tidal River Severn and carried Severn ‘tidal’ trows, which could sail but were often pulled by men. The towpath you see today was not available then and horses weren’t used.

Fascinating fact: As well as being flat-bottomed load carriers, the versatile Severn trows were seaworthy and sometime hung a huge log on chains to act as a temporary keel when they went out to sea.

Supporting the wool industry

This walking route doesn’t take you along all of the Stroudwater, which connects Stroud with the River Severn at Framilode. The canal was created to carry coal to and cloth from the woollen mills, some of which you can still see. The existing River Frome wasn’t navigable but runs along the Stroudwater; keep your eyes open for connections between the two as you walk.

3. Ryeford Double Lock

Just after a pretty blue and white cottage at Ryeford, the towpath steepens as it rises next to two lock chambers. Ryeford Double Lock would have been managed by the lock keeper who lived in the cottage, which still doesn’t have proper road access today.

Spill weirs

Between Ryeford and Ebley, keep an eye out for the information board describing spill weirs. Just next to it you’ll spot a great example of a circular spill weir. Simple but clever.

4. Ebley Mill

The modern buildings on one side and 19th Century Ebley Mill on the other, make this section of the Stroudwater Canal a walk through history. Ebley Mill was once a large woollen mill employing whole families including children but there have been mills (originally to grind corn) at Ebley since the 14th Century. Today the building is the headquarters of Stroud District Council.

Fascinating fact: Because the mills also had a large requirement for water, the locks that kept the Stroudwater topped up were only opened outside work hours and at higher tides.

5. Wallbridge Basin

Wallbridge Basin is just down the road from Stroud station so it’s time to leave the water here. But before you do, it’s worth taking a moment to celebrate the achievements of this remarkable waterway. Here you can face west back along the Stroudwater Navigation and east to the Thames and Severn Canal.

A royal visit

This joining of two canals is significant because it represents the first link by waterway between Bristol and London. It was thought to be so important at the time that King George III and Queen Charlotte passed through Stroud to admire the works. A beautiful carving marks the junction.

I have happy childhood memories of visits to the Cotswolds. In particular Painswick and its famous ninety-nine yew trees with Granny and Bourton-on-the-Water to explore its replica model village with my sisters.

Memories of Cotswold stone

I was thrilled to see that the buildings along this stretch of the Stroudwater navigation, including stunning St Cyr’s church, are mostly made from the same honey-coloured Cotswold stone I remember from childhood. I would have liked to explore inside St Cyr’s but there was a funeral taking place. My thoughts went to my grandparents, who are no longer with us but used to take us grandchildren on all kinds of fun days out.

Industrial peace

I love canal walks for their ability to take you between towns or cities but also because of their history. Walking along the peaceful navigation, I found myself wishing I could travel back in time and see it in its much busier, industrial state.

Historical information

I have no idea how long I took to complete this walk but I do know that I stopped to soak in the atmosphere on several of the plentiful benches (including King George’s). I also stopped to read all of the information boards, kindly provided by the Cotswolds Canal Partnership. I’m glad I did, I would have missed out on so much insight if I hadn’t.

A friendly welcome

I had heard good things about Stroud town and took some time to explore before heading to the train station. I wasn’t disappointed. I was greeted by market stalls, independent shops, talented buskers and super friendly people. My recommendation would definitely be to opt for the later train home and head to the Top of Town to indulge.

Cotswold train stations are in plentiful supply but I haven’t yet explored them all.

Cheltenham Spa station

Just up the line, I would definitely recommend Cheltenham Spa station which is a 30-minute walk from Regency Cheltenham town centre; a fabulous town if you love craft beer. Deya Brewery Taproom, just across the road from the station is a personal favourite. Check out my Cheltenham beer walk.

Gloucester station

Gloucester station is nearer to Stroud and gives you access to the cafes, museums and boats at Gloucester Docks, as well as the Gloucester Quays shopping centre.

For a longer canal walk by train, how about the Birmingham and Worcester Canal?

Or a gentle stroll to the sea along the Exeter Canal from Marsh Barton station?